In many Moroccan cities, the streets are narrow and crowded. This is especially true in the medina quarter, the oldest part of the city. When the streets are too crowded to walk and too narrow to drive a car, mopeds are simply the easiest way to get around. In Fes, Essouria and Marrakech, we saw (and almost collided with) hundreds of mopeds. We would often see two or even three people riding one small bike. People of all ages, genders, shapes and sizes ride mopeds. My favorite encounter with a moped? In Fes, I watched a bearded man in a traditional djellaba drive a moped down the street with a lit cigarette in one hand and a cup of espresso in the other.